At Skin of Color Update 2024, Dr. Cheryl Burgess delivered an insightful presentation on providing safe and effective cosmetic treatments for patients with skin of color. Her talk emphasized the importance of understanding both biological and cultural differences to minimize complications and enhance outcomes.
Dr. Burgess highlighted that, while all individuals have the same number of melanocytes, patients with darker skin have larger melanosomes, increasing their risk for hyperpigmentation. She also explained how cultural beauty ideals—such as preferences for lighter skin in Southeast Asia or fuller body figures in West Africa—can shape patient expectations and treatment goals.
Histologically, skin of color differs in fibroblast structure, melanin dispersion, and vascular reactivity, making it more prone to scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Dr. Burgess stressed careful diagnosis using tools like a Wood’s lamp and colorimeters, and advocated for test spots and low-concentration peels to ensure safety.
She identified the Nd:YAG 1064nm laser as the safest option for hair removal and pigmentation treatment, while advising against IPL due to risks of burns. Other effective technologies include radiofrequency and ultrasound-based treatments, which require cautious use.
Finally, Dr. Burgess underscored the need for cultural sensitivity in cosmetic enhancements, such as lip augmentation preferences among Black patients and body image norms in West Africa. Her presentation called for a personalized, informed approach to cosmetic dermatology that combines clinical skill with cultural understanding.
This session summary was written by Dr. Nidhi Shah and published on Next Steps in Derm.
